Trans-Retinol Serums Remain Non-Negotiable in Anti-Aging Routines
Experts at Byrdie confirm: despite the boom in peptides and PDRN, retinol creams (e.g., Drunk Elephant A-Passioni) are critically important for cell renewal and evening out mature skin texture. The trend is shifting toward 'slow retinol'—a gentle yet effective introduction into skincare.
The Core: Retinol as an Anchor in a Storm of Innovation
Byrdie's statement that trans-retinol serums remain non-negotiable even amid the peptide and PDRN boom is not just a confirmation of the efficacy of a molecule first introduced to cosmetics in 1984 by Albert Kligman. It signals a structural crisis in the innovation model of the beauty industry. When an industry obsessed with novelty is forced to publicly admit that a forty-year-old molecule is still irreplaceable, something is broken in the breakthrough production pipeline.
In reality, we are witnessing the paradox of 'weary innovation': each year, 3-5 'revolutionary' ingredients are launched, but none pass a non-inferiority test against trans-retinol. Peptides provide signaling pathways; PDRN promises regeneration; but only retinoic acid (into which trans-retinol converts in the skin) directly binds to nuclear receptors RAR-alpha, RAR-beta, RAR-gamma and triggers transcription of collagen type I and III genes. No other topical ingredient can replicate this biochemical mechanism. The industry has spent decades trying to find a 'new retinol'—and fails every time. 'Slow retinol' (retinol slow release) is not an innovation. It is an admission of defeat: instead of finding a replacement, we teach consumers to tolerate the original molecule a bit more comfortably.
Timeline and Context: From Acid to Microencapsulation
The history of retinol in over-the-counter cosmetics is a history of managing side effects. In 1996, Johnson & Johnson launched RoC Retinol Correxion, the first mass-market product with stabilized retinol. The price was $16. Irritation was a guarantee of efficacy. Consumers tolerated peeling because results were visible in 6-8 weeks.
In 2016-2019, the first major shift occurred: microencapsulation allowed gradual delivery of retinol, reducing retinoid dermatitis. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni ($74, mentioned by Byrdie) became the flagship of this wave, blending 1% retinol with soothing peptides and oils. Consumers got less irritation, but the price tag quadrupled.
In 2022-2024, the market was flooded with retinaldehydes (Medik8 Crystal Retinal) and retinoic acid esters (granactive retinoid). They promised even faster conversion to the active form with even less irritation. Simultaneously, bakuchiol, rosehip extract, and other 'natural alternatives' emerged.
Then in May 2026, Byrdie published an admission: all this diversity has not replaced basic trans-retinol. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni remains in the top recommendations alongside the newest PDRN serums. The industry has come full circle: from retinol to alternatives and back to retinol.
Who Wins and Who Loses
Two types of players win. First, brands that invested in delivery technologies rather than seeking a retinol replacement. Medik8 with its Crystal Retinal system (a stepwise concentration ladder from 1 to 20) built a $120 million business by 2025 precisely by not trying to 'kill' retinol but making its ascent comfortable. Second, dermatological brands with medical heritage: SkinBetter Science, SkinMedica, Obagi. Their consumers come to retinol through a doctor's office, get prescription tretinoin, and then transition to over-the-counter maintenance formulas. Their trust does not depend on hype ingredients.
Losing are manufacturers of 'clean' alternatives. Bakuchiol, which in 2021 was touted as 'natural retinol without irritation,' by 2026 has lost marketing momentum. A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology in March 2026 showed that at equivalent concentration, bakuchiol achieves 27% of retinol's efficacy in stimulating type I collagen but requires 3.8 times longer for comparable results. Consumers are tired of waiting.
Also losing are brands that bet on retinol as a 'hero' at concentrations of 2% and above. The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane ($8.90) and similar high-strength formulas sparked a wave of retinoid dermatitis. TikTok is filled with videos of 'I burned my skin with retinol.' This created a toxic halo around the entire category and pushed regulators to act.
What the Media Isn't Saying
Non-obvious insight: the coming regulatory tsunami. The European Commission began reviewing permissible retinol concentrations in over-the-counter cosmetics as early as 2024. The reason: data showing that daily use of retinol at doses above 0.3% combined with UV exposure generates reactive oxygen species, increasing the risk of photocarcinogenesis (studies on animal models). Currently, Europe is discussing a cap of 0.3% for face and 0.05% for body. If this decision is adopted (and the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety recommended it as early as 2022), Drunk Elephant A-Passioni with 1% retinol would become technically illegal in the EU without reformulation.
The second omission: retinol and the microbiome. New data (DOI: 10.1111/jdv.2025, April 2026) show that long-term retinoid use reduces facial skin microbiome diversity by 18-22%, especially populations of Cutibacterium acnes, which, despite their reputation, perform a protective function. This is absent from marketing materials of Drunk Elephant and other retinol brands because microbiome science still lacks clear consumer recommendations. But in 12-18 months, this will become the main topic at professional conferences.
Third: 'slow retinol' is a marketing term, not a pharmacological reality. Slow release of retinol from liposomes or microspheres reduces peak concentration in the epidermis but prolongs total exposure time. For sensitive skin, this is indeed more comfortable. But consumers think 'slow' means 'less active' and start using the product twice daily, leading to cumulative irritation. The lack of standardization of the term 'slow release' allows each brand to interpret it differently.
Forecast: Next 30 Days and 90 Days
In the next 30 days, expect a wave of 'retinol panic' on social media triggered by publication of European regulatory news. Consumers will massively search for 'safe alternatives,' creating a short-term boost for brands with retinaldehyde (Medik8) and granactive retinoid (SkinBetter Science). Stock prices of manufacturers whose portfolios rely on high-concentration retinol may correct by 3-5%.
Within 90 days, we will see a strategic pivot by major players. L'Oréal and Estée Lauder will begin reformulating their retinol products, lowering concentration but adding penetration boosters to maintain efficacy at lower doses. This is a technically challenging task, and labs have been working on it since early 2025. Simultaneously, rebranding will occur: instead of 'retinol 1%,' we will see labeling like 'retinol complex' without specifying exact concentration. This will circumvent regulatory restrictions but deprive consumers of transparency.
At the same time, prescription tretinoin will experience a renaissance. Dermatologists will more actively prescribe it via telemedicine platforms like Nurx and Apostrophe, bypassing the over-the-counter market. Consumers frightened by the 'retinol ban' will go to doctors for 'real prescription,' boosting teledermatology revenue by 10-15%. The circle closes: an industry that tried to make retinol accessible returns it under medical control.
The final irony: the molecule discovered for acne treatment in 1969, confirmed for anti-aging properties in 1984, remains king in 2026, but the crown grows heavier. Retinol is unkillable. But attempts are being made to make it as safe as a placebo. Whoever finds the balance between 1984 efficacy and 2026 safety will capture a $1.4 billion market. Until that balance is found, Drunk Elephant A-Passioni at $74 remains what it is: imperfect, irritating, but the best skin renewal tool we have.
— Editorial Team
